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The Round Up: Fast Fashion Victims

In the News:

In a recent report entitled “It Still Happens Here”,  the Centre for Social Justice (CSJ) and the anti-slavery charity Justice and Care have found a rise in incidents of domestic slavery, and warned that the problem is likely to intensify in the aftermath of the coronavirus crisis.

Among a number of recommendations, the report calls for:

In relation to the final recommendation, the court said that it was “particularly pressing given reports of the links between labour exploitation in garment factories and an outbreak of COVID-19 in Leicester.”

The report refers to claims that sweatshops in Leicester continued to operate during the pandemic, currently being investigated by the National Crime Agency.

Implicated online fashion retailer Boohoo has seen its share price slump by 23%, bringing its lockdown boom period, during which its online sales rose by 45%, to an abrupt end. Boohoo has appointed Alison Levitt QC to lead an independent review, and promised to spend £10m to end “malpractice”.

But the reports hardly break new ground. The Financial Times attempted to expose Boohoo’s links to exploitative practices in the Leicester garment industry as far back as May 2018. Its report emphasised that the problem had been discussed in detail by representatives from UK Visas and Immigration, the Health and Safety Executive, the Gangmasters and Labour Abuse Authority, and Leicester council, but that little was done to address the problem.

After the more recent reports, the mayor of Leicester, Sir Peter Soulsby,  and three local Labour MPs have been accused of failing to act on warnings about the situation given more than three months ago. In response, Claudia Webbe, MP for Leicester East where many of the factories are based, called the accusations “outrageous”. She emphasised that “the government has been in power for 10 years”, and said that it needed “to properly fund the Health and Safety Executive (HSE) and local authorities if it’s serious about making a change.”

So: the Tories blame Labour, Labour blames the Tories, and Boohoo and Leicester are singled out for public shaming. But the CSJ’s report makes it clear that this is no isolated incident. Moreover, since “poverty, lack of opportunity and other vulnerabilities” (the main drivers of modern slavery and economic exploitation) have only intensified during the coronavirus crisis, “action is now more crucial than ever.” Whether it will be taken this time, unlike in 2018, remains to be seen.

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